Bronze Hardware
&
Tools

designed and produced here at Duck Trap
Prices in US
and subject to change without notice.

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We made our initial foray into traditional hardware as it became increasingly obvious that the quality we insisted on for our own boats was no longer available. We carved and mounted our own foundry patterns, so that we could have the oarlocks and rudder fittings we needed cast in silicon bronze. The castings are producedhere in Maine, and the machining is done right in our shop as time in our building schedule allows.

The line we have all seen is “prices subject to change without notice,” but we all know they never, ever, decrease. Raw materials, labor and even shipping charges are climbing steadily to no one’s advantage. We have never increased prices lightly, and never will. So despite the seeming inevitably of increases, rest assured that you will find that our hardware is a true value…something that in itself is rare enough these days.

 

Standing Oarlock Horns Standing oarlock horns are graceful fittings designed to allow the rower to row while standing upright, facing forward. That's the way lobstermen worked when they fished for shedders working close alongshore. Standing you can see down into the water and thus avoid submerged rocks and snags. And it is as handy as sculling when poking around inside a harbor or salt marsh.

These are substantial bronze oarlock horns, that measure about 14" overall with shanks turned to 3/4" diameter. As you can see from the ruler in the photo, they bury nearly 6".

Standing horns are usually installed in an elongated midship oarlock pad together with the standard horns. The tail end of that shank seats in a secondary socket that makes the installation extremely solid. It's not at all difficult; here's how it's done...Installation Page

We also produce standard oarlocks and sockets.

Rudder Fittings

We build more wherries than anything else. And the one thing they all share in common is that typical rudder fittings aren't really suitable.

It's a problem common to every boat where there is narrow bearing for the lower rudder fitting. That includes double enders, Whitehalls, and even dories.

This is a set of bronze rudder fittings for a wherry. We use gudgeons only. Rudder gudgeons, as seen at the top, attach to the body of the rudder with #10 rivets. We only offer one size, and these are designed for a 3/4" thick rudder. The transom gudgeon (2nd one up) works well up high on the transom. The sternpost gudgeon (at the bottom of the photo) is unique. It is just the ticket for down low on a wherry transom where it's narrow. If you think they're unusual, you're right. It is our design, and we make them. A piece of 5/16" bronze rod passes through all four fittings and acts as a hinge pin.

Why no pintles? Because they have a nasty tendency to become unshipped. Attached using the rod, should the rudder strike bottom, it can jump and then drop right back down in place. We've been using this system for years, and never had a problem.

These are sold as "machined castings," as seen above, or you can order them fully polished if you prefer.

Machine Castings (shown) priced at US$76./set
Polished @ US $96./set
...bronze rod not included...
Want to save a few bucks?
...then order the castings, and you handle the drilling.
Casting price @ US$66./set

For further information, click here.

Essential Boatbuilding Tools..............

Brass Boatbuilder's Bevel This is one of the handiest tools a builder can own. If you've spent much time trying to use a standard 6" adjustable bevel in close quarters, you already know how unhandy that is. This pocket-sized bevel is just the right size for picking bevels off a plan or a lofting, working in tight spots inboard, checking plank edges, and for setting saws. We made the first one 30 years ago while working in the eyes of a 57' Trawler Yacht, and it has been in use ever since. Recommended in Mohr's Canoe Craft and Steward's Boatbuilding Manual, this is far and away the most popular item in our catalogue.

Priced @$20.00. Allow 1# shipping weight.

Holding Iron This is another special purpose tool with a number of uses around a boatshop. It is shaped like the head of a top maul, in fact that's what inspired the design, but that's where the similarity between the two ends. Its primary function is to back up the heads of rivets while their inboard ends are being piened. It weighs a hefty 6 pounds, so it is also a great tool to have when nails are being driven because it absorbs the shock that would otherwise be transferred throughout the boat. Each is outfitted with a tapered 3/8" tip so that you can back up a recessed nail head, and with side recesses to accommodate 3/8" and 1/2" roves. In use, snap the rove into the appropriate recess, position the iron over the nail point on the inboard planking surface, and drive it home, setting the rove and serving as backing at the same time.

Price each, $37.95 Shipping weight 7 lbs.

Rove Iron A rove iron looks like an overdeveloped nailset, though it is correctly a burr set. There are always places in a boat where a holding iron simply won't fit. That's where this tool comes in. It is just the ticket for setting roves or undersized burrs, and particularly handy for straightening the inboard ends of rivets at the turn of the bilge. Made of hot rolled steel, it measures approximately 6" long and 3/4" in diameter. Note please that our latest ones are turned from hexagonal stock.

Price each,$17.50 Ship. wt 2 lbs.

Bronze Riveting Hammer There is absolutely no substitute for a lightweight ballpien hammer for making down copper rivets. One with a 4 ounce head works best, and we designed this hammer specifically for boatbuilding. Ours is cast hard manganese bronze alloy with the head and shaft a single piece–this head will never come loose. The handle is offset just enough to keep you from rapping your knuckles while riveting. These are polished and fitted with oil finished teak or walnut handles. Second to none, our bronze riveting hammers are beautiful to behold and a joy to use. Built to last a lifetime and beyond...

We are no longer producing these hammers.

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Lap Clamps Lapstrake boats require lapstrake clamps--makes sense. Unlike a "C" clamp or a spring clamp, these have considerable throat depth, enabling them to reach over a plank and clamp the lap together for drilling and fastening. The design is simplicity itself, self contained, and will last a long, long time. We made our first ones prior to 1970 and after all these years they are still going strong. There's not a lot that can go wrong with them. They are equipped with stainless spindles, leather hinges, and softwood clamp pads. Clamp jaws vary, but currently we are making them of birch. Our standard clamps have a 7" reach, but we've made them from canoe size (4") to dory size (12"). 4", 7", and 12" clamps are shown above. Plans are available should you prefer to make your own–and if you go that route, we sell clamp handles separately. Just like the one in the photo, they are welded steel and chrome plated, with a black plastic knob (see below).

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